Archive for the ‘Tools and techniques’ Category

Golden Paints Lecture

Sunday, April 18th, 2004

I went to Tesia Blackburn‘s Golden lecture at Flax. She’s giving another on 26 June at Riley Street in Santa Rosa; it may be worth going. She basically goes through all of the materials Golden makes, showing the material out of the tube or bottle, mixed with paint, in a dried sample. I found that wonderfully useful for me in figuring out what it is i want my paints to do. She also gives out color charts and body sample charts that are actually painted, and there’s a nice pack of a collection of paints and media to try out. As a beginner — i found it a very useful presentation.

For my own notes, i signed up for the Golden and “the presenting artist’s” mailing lists with the email address beginning ATC1.

More notes on other workshops at the end.

* Mixing mineral pigments (cadmiums, chromiums, cobalts) produces earthy tones; using the synthetic colors in mixing leads to bright, clear colors.

* I should have been experimenting with the soft gel gloss, not the regular gel gloss, to get the translucency i wanted. Also, my earlier experiment probably ran afoul of the mineral pigment issue. [Bought soft gel -- and it's in the sampler pack]

* The liquid paints have as much pigment as the solids. Mix the liquid paints with the mediums to get heavier body. Save $. 1-9 mix of liquid to medium makes a translucent glaze; 3-7 mix gets to be the “equivalent” of the heavy body paints. [three samples of liquid paints are in the sampler pack including one irridescent]

* Tar gel produces wonderful stringy body. Showed marbleized acrylic film (let film dry on glass). [Bought tar gel]

* I liked the liquid paint over the molding paste — molding paste is somewhat more absorbent. [In the sample pack, i think]


Flax is hosting her two day $130 workshop on using Acrylics like Oils — apparently students will work form several “Old Masters” paintings to explore the different techniques. Flax lists the following requirements:

# Three blank canvasses (9″x12″)
# Roll of paper towels
# Water container (1 Qt)
# Apron or smock
# 2-3 plastic palette knives
# Paper plates or disposable acrylic palette pad
# Soft sable or synthetic sable brushes: round #4 & #6; flat #6 & #8
(Robert Simmons makes a good inexpensive synthetic sable brush.)

The same workshop is offered at “SF City – College Fort Mason – (415) 561-1860″ on July 24 & 31 but it’s not clear what the fee would be. (And if that’s really the date, i can’t go to that, either.) Her Golden calendar is also a little behind the flyer she shared at the demo.

New brushes and paints

Saturday, September 27th, 2003

From a run to Flax. There i met with SF-artpals, Ruth and Amy, bought brushes, palettes, and gouache — which i meant to — and then papers and gifts.

$4.50 list $9.00 Kolinsky plus brush set
three rounds 590 : 1/0, #4, #6
sienna handles with gold ends

$4.80 list $6.00 Union Art camel craft brush set
mop #6, flat #2, “fan” #5, spotter 3/0, bright #6, round #5, liner #1
pearl handles
(fibers already coming loose, but at least i’ll get to figure out what i really want to use before investing)

$1.20 list $1.50 Dr Martin 30 Well Palette
It feels very flimsy, but it will be perfect with the twenty paint set — i don’t really intend to wash the wells out. I just inscribe all the names of the paints around twenty of the wells. Learning aid.

$3.20 list $4.00 Plastic palette tray 10×13
Nice different size mixing areas. More rugged than the Dr Martin wells — this one i may end up trying with the acrylics.

$21.56 list $26.95 French School Gouache set
While the 10 ml (.33 fl oz) tubes have colors like “Blue” marked on them in a large courier-like font, in smaller print cobalt is distinguished from ultramarine, and so on.

Bookbinding

Sunday, August 24th, 2003

http://www.geocities.com/thiswomansrevolution/diy/bookbinding.html

This may actually be what i want to do, except instead of slots & tabs, i’ll affix the pages permanently. And i won’t have nearly as elegant a cover.

I think the test book will be a collection of cards and postcards — correspondence.

http://www.philobiblon.com/tutorials.htm

http://www.temperproductions.com/QJ-how-to/adhesive%20quarter-jointe.htm

— i don’t have the press, but i don’t expect to be fan gluing the block, either.

http://www.axs4u.net/home/inksmith/jun00.htm

— tyvek techniques

http://people.whitman.edu/~winkleal/fiction/coptic.htm

— coptic binding
AHA!

http://www.cafecancun.com/bookarts/betty/

— double guarded binding!! This is it!!!

Gel Medium Transfers

Saturday, August 16th, 2003

Instructions

Paul Fujita at Zeitgeist Art Gallery

Calligraphy Advice

Saturday, August 16th, 2003

[Posted in the Nervousness Forums; there was great follow up, too.]

The best book i’ve found on caligraphy so far is _The Calligrapher’s Companion_ by Mary Noble and Janet Mehigan.

I’ll offer another opinion — i think learning with Speedball nibs in a nib holder is much better than with chisel tipped felt pens. You can get in bad habits with the felt tips, because they’ll move “backwards” across the paper in a way that the metal nibs won’t. And i have a bunch of the reservoir pens — Osmiroid, is a common brand — but find that i rarely use them.

One note — the best lesson i learned from TCC is to fill the pens with a brush and not to dip them. I’ve had much better results since. The basic black ink i use has an eyedropper — it’s perfect for filling the “dip” nibs.

I’ve drawn in ink off and on for a while and recently tried drawing with a dip pen with a drawing nib. I was thrilled with how much more comfortable i was with it than with Rapidograph pens. And it seems much easier to keep the nibs clean and not clogged.

If it’s “real” ink — and those Windsor and Newton inks are just fine — you don’t need to water it down. I’ve bought some acrylic inks and have found that i do need to water those down — experiment!

With the paper — i’ve found most sketchbook paper to work just fine. If you want to write on paper that you find out actually beeds — it’s too porus — you can use gum sandarac, a resin, to rub into the paper to keep the bleeding from happening. If you find the paper too slick, there’s something called Pounce (i think it’s pumice dust) to roughen it up a bit. (I use it to make sure the gum from erasing sketch lines is gone.)

I end up ordering most of my supplies by mail — Misterart.com was my last order of ink and nibs — because the craft and hobby and art supply stores here in *San Francisco* don’t have a wide enough selection in one place.

Hope this helps! I’ve just restarted calligraphy after years of being “too busy.”

Cheers,

feel free to ask more,

judith

Frisket, soft pastels, and Hunt nibs

Saturday, August 16th, 2003

Thursday night i gave some new art supplies a try, and then followed up with a little more experimentation on Friday. In my new shipment I’d ordered some supplies inspired by The Calligrapher’s Companion: frisket, soft pastels, and then, because of how much i enjoyed drawing the Star Series with a dip pen, some drawing nibs.

Frisket

Grafix: The Incredible White Mask Liquid Frisket, described as “A unique formulation of the highest quality latex assures a tough film mask that is easily removed. Its off white color shows through your work so you can see precisely where you’ve masked. It is non-staining and can be used on all artist papers, board, wood leather, glass, metal and ceramics. A superior frisket at a lower price per once than other brands.” I wanted to experiment with masking out the soft pastels. I doubted the frisket would work — i assued that rubbing in the pastels would rub away the frisket — Not so! I could rub the pastels into the paper and the frisket stayed firm. The frisket did hold the pastel pigments better than the paper, and i almost regretted pulling the frisket away — the brighter sweeps against the lighter background was attractive. Still, continuing with the experimment, pulling back the frisket wored fine, and i didn’t rub pigment into the white regions. Higgins non-waterproof black wrote just fine over both the pastels and the post-frisketted areas. There might have been a little bleed where the frisket had been, but it was not particularly significant.

Another surprise — it was easy to write with a C-4 speedball nib over the pastel dusted frisket. Note: really let the ink dry before removing the frisket! Smudges reward the impatient!

What about frisket to protect a pastel area? And frisket and acrylic inks? Well, the frisket does pull up much of the pigment that’s been rubbed into the paper. Drawn lines don’t seem as lifted.

I was too impatient to get the pen working with the acrylic ink, so i just used a brush. My main concern was that the frisket would peel the acrylic off from the paper at the edges, but it seemed to leave a nice crisp edge. I think there was one spot where it peeled back a little. The acrylic inks are very thin compared to acrylic paints.

Pastels

Alphacolor Pastel Sets set of 12 square pastel soft basic colors: “Vibrant, non-toxic. Highly pigmented strong colors make bright pictures, posters and murals on cloth or paper (not recommended for use on chalkboards).”

My first experiment was just to draw a slight weave in orange and yellow and then rub the pigments into the paper before writing over it with walnut ink. THis went well. The lines did remain pretty visible, but the deeply pigmented and the more pale were equally easy to write over.

The next page i tested more colors. Some seem to adhere to the paper better than others. In particular, the pink and pale blue never really adhered to the paper. When the colors are drawn on to the paper they don’t seem to blend as well as when using the technique shown in the caligraphy book of shaving the pigment off with a knife. My low adhesion making tape works as a fine mask. Unlike the frisket, it doesn’t seem to lift the colors underneath.

Another test was with the frisket. I used the shaving technique and mixed yellow, green, and blue pigments on the page. It made a lovely color background for the caligraphy. A final test was to see how gum sandarac and pounce (pumice dust) might affect the adhesion of the pigment to paper. While i think there was a slight improvement in adhesion with the gum sandarac, the pounce seemed to keep pigment from being rubbed into the paper.

Hunt Nibs

(Tested with walnut ink on soft pastel in my sketch book)

Hunt School Pen No. 56: described as, “A fine drawing pen for art school, stiff action. Bronze finish. Use No. 9451 Speedball Pen holder.” In my very brief experiment, i found myself wishing it had a reservoir. It didn’t seem that stiff — it is a shorter nib than the others.

Hunt Imperial Pen No. 101: described as, “A very flexible pen for ornamental work. Bronze finish. Use No. 9451 Speedball Holder.” I really liked this pen. The range of width, the flexibility, seemed amazing — if i can learn to control it. It’s very similar in appearance to the Shcool Pen nib 56 — a little longer with a more ornate “keyhole”.

Hunt Crow Quill Pen No. 102: described as, “A superfine art pen. Flexible. Use No. 102 holder.” This seemed very stiff, very fine. I can imagine doing shading lines with it. If, like all these pens, it had more of a reservoir, i’d write with it daily because i love the very fine line.

Hunt Globe Pen No. 513EF: described as, “Extra fine line bowl pointed pen for industrial arts. Use No. 9451 Speedball Pen Holder.” I liked this one too, although i feel it has a secret it wasn’t sharing with me. It didn’t have the range in width the Imperial had, but i think i had better control.

Pastel by color

White: no test
Pink: possibly helped in adhesion by gum sandrac. Nearly invisible on white paper; completely lost when mixed. Probably appropriate for uses other than calligraphy backgrounds.
Pale blue: slightly better than the pink.
Yellow green: nearly indistinguishable from the bright yellow.
Yellow: the distinction between the drawn area and where the rest of the pigment is rubbed into the paper is not as strong as with other colors. — good drawing permanence, great pigment
Orange: strong drawing permanence, great pigment
Red: good drawing permanence, great pigment
Purple: good drawing permanence, ok pigment
Green: good drawing permanence, ok pigment
Blue:good drawing permanence, great pigment
Brown: strong drawing permanence, great pigment
Black: strong drawing permanence, great pigment

PS-whines: MisterArt.com saves your order history, but doesn’t link your items back to the original description. Pout.

Also bought in this order: Higgins Calligraphy Waterproof Black Ink and Golden Acrylic Gel Medium.

Digital Image Libraries

Tuesday, August 12th, 2003

I will be accumulating links to digial image archives here. I have lost so many collections by trying to keep track of them in browser bookmarks — this will hopefully be a safer home.

* NOAA Photo Library:
Over 20,000 images. I found wonderful snowflake images here. To start exploration of the collections, consider the etchings of marine creatures in this collection.
Public domain, although they request credit to “National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration/Department of Commerce unless otherwise instructed to give credit to the photographer or other source. ”
[030812]

* Prelinger Archives:
Moving images cleared for the public domain. If you’ve got the tools to pull a still out of one of these, you have a wealth of “retro” photographs at hand.
“Any derivative works that you produce using these films are yours to perform, publish, reproduce, sell, or distribute in any way you wish without any limitations.” Rick Prelinger is a great advocate for the Creative Commons.
[030812]

* http://images.usace.army.mil/historical.html

* San Francisco Historical Photograph Collection:
They have some forms for reproduction and publication (which is $15) requests.
[030812]

Backing for photographs

Tuesday, August 5th, 2003

MW recommended any archival PVA. It appears that my latest glue stick, Elmer’s Craft Bond Acid Free is in this class. (This to That is a fascinating glue site i stumbled across when looking for advice for a glue to adhere semiprecious stones to metal.)

k recommended spray adhesives and recommended 3M, Elmers or Krylon brands.

Pros: Extremely strong – no worries about seperation. Quick Drying.
Con: Enviro-unfriendly. Extremely strong bonding (don’t glue your
fingers together!) Toxic chemicals present.

CK’ s description of the Xyron got me terribly curious. The corporate site has a chart of all their products: http://www.xyron.com/products_chart.php I did some poking about on eBay. There have been several sales of the 500 model (list $35) for under $10. A patient bidder could probably get the machine for half list.

It’s pretty clear that like razors and inkjet printers, the profit is in the refills. All i really wanted, before i knew this very cool gadget existed, was to be able to run a sheet of labels through my printer and then put them on the back of my photos. HP white letter-sized labels run $11 at Office Max. It’s well over twice the area of the adhesive rolls the Xyron uses at half the list price. The photo quality Aveery labels for a full letter sheet size are just under twice the area of the Xyron cartridge.

Admittedly the Xyron has far more flexibility than inkjet labels and seems like it’d be fabulous in a great number of projects. Not in the least is how it would be a wonderful way to adhere cardstock to the back of photos, exactly what i was looking for.

XYRON 500 (XRN500) List: $34.99 eBay $10-15
Width: 5″ / 12.7 cm
Acid-Free Permanent Adhesive 18′ Cartridge (1080 square inches)
Part Number: AT1505-18 $14.99

XYRON 505 (XRN505) List: $49.99 Width: 5″ / 12.7 cm

XYRON 510 (XRN510ATP) List: $49.99 eBay $25-30
Width: 5″ / 12.7 cm
Acid-Free Permanent 18′ Cartridge for Xyron 510 (1080 square inches)
Part Number: AT1605-18 $17.99

HP Inkjet White Full Sheet Labels 8-1/2″ x 11″ 25/BX (2337 square inches)
Item # 20394510 , Style # Q2550A $11 at OfficeMax