Later today i may make some variation of these oven fried green tomatoes. Earlier this week, i repotted the volunteer tomatoes into a container i can more easily move to shelter this winter, and i cut back the long rambling vines, giving me a cluster of green fruit.
Reading this morning, it’s clear that these volunteer plants must be “indefinite” plants with long rambling vines and the production of suckers. I did prune back the “suckers” — branches off the main vine — this summer, but i think any growth to the suckers this season is to be encouraged. In fact, since i’ve cut back the main vine on the three plants, all the current growth is essentially the sprouts from near the roots. I’m pondering whether i should be pinching back the flowers so the plant will focus on vegetative growth and not fruiting. There’s a useful distinction about different pruning theories at How Stuff Works.
One site states, “The tomato plant can die if temperatures fall below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Soil temperatures should be around 65 degrees Fahrenheit or warmer for the tomato to thrive.” This seems to be the advice given for spring planting out; another site simply states that planting should be when “temperatures are consistently above 50° F at night and 65°F during the day.” I suspect they’ll be somewhat dormant, but survive colder temperatures as established plants. There doesn’t seem to be much advice about how one can over-winter tomatoes and get the benefit of growth on mature plants. My suspicion is the second year of growth could be an even better fruiting year because of the established plant.
I also pinched back the flowers on my pepper plant, another perennial. It was a purchased plant, and i’d like to see if i can get another season out of it.